The Joy Of Stripes - John Lewis Autumn / Winter 2024 Collection
A stripped bare Georgian mansion lent itself as the backdrop to the launch of the John Lewis autumn & winter collection. In words & pictures.
Describing itself as, “an 18th century London mansion catering to the creative industries”, and providing “a Palladian backdrop to your events”, 14 Cavendish, located on the north side of Cavendish Square and a stone’s throw from the John Lewis Oxford Street store, was an inspired choice of venue for the Partnership to show off their new autumn and winter collection.
No matter that 14 Cavendish is undergoing something of a makeover, if anything, the trailing cables and bare walls created a patina which only served to enhance the experience. Initial impressions therefore were positive - the optics were good. But what of the collection?
Prior to the main opening later in the evening, I was privileged to be given a personal guided tour, courtesy of new Retail Director, Peter Ruis and his senior team. Fashion, home furnishings, furniture, lighting and even a little technology were all featured.
Seemingly emboldened by an encouraging return to profit as evidenced by its latest full year results, and a new look leadership team, it felt as if new ground was being broken and that what we were witnessing can be described as something of a renaissance for the Partnership.
“The Classic Home has a strong identity, defined by heritage prints, bold colour and eclectic patterns. Departing from traditional colour drenching, this season we’re bringing in ‘Rebel Red’ to add an unexpected detail to our interiors”
In fashion, layers and sustainability were the order of the day, in both ladies and menswear, and just three weeks into the job, new Fashion Director, Rachel Morgans, along with Queralt Ferrer Josa, took us through the collections.
In womenswear, luxury fabrics lie at the heart of this latest collection, including luxe leather, sumptuous silk and sustainably sourced cashmere. Rachel and Queralt proudly showed off the standout items which included an alpaca cape cardigan, a cashmere vest and a lace trim slip dress.
Elegant sat comfortably alongside affordable (£59 cashmere top anyone?) whilst the aforementioned sustainability was a constant and underlying theme. Recycling not only fashion through the Partnership’s FashionCycle scheme but rental through thelittleloop for childrenswear, BeautyCycle, recycling of larger electrical items and perhaps, best of all, mattresses made from wool sourced from Waitrose farms.
A separate section showed off the Sign of the Times preloved pop-up, which features not only preloved fashion but preloved luxury accessories including designer handbags and jewellery.
In mens, like the womenswear, luxury fabrics such as wool, leather and cashmere featured heavily alongside cord trucker jackets and shearling vests. Knitwear was in evidence in a range of prints, textures and colours, and as Queralt told me, this is becoming the hero item of the season.
The result of a new fashion collaboration was also on display, however, being under embargo until September means I’m unable to say anything here but watch this space, it is set to make a big impact.
“The enduring appeal of stripes is their ability to bring structure to a space whilst maintaining character”
Homeware and furnishings were equally well represented, including, as in fashion, the John Lewis ANYDAY range. Director of Home, Jason Wilary-Attew took me through the collection including the new collaboration with British designers Collagerie which has produced an 86 piece collection comprising cushions, linens, lighting, tableware, wallpaper and nightwear.
Alongside which sit leading independent brands such as Ercolani and Flos, Papier and Ichendorf, with the Partnership claiming that, “the edit unearths the best pieces without the search”.
Moving to what can only be described as the drawing room at 14 Cavendish, it’s all bold stripes and ‘Rebel Red’, which is intended to add an, “unexpected detail” to the John Lewis interiors.
This felt very much like a statement collection, and whilst dates would not necessarily have aligned - such has been the timing of the recent appointments, this also felt like an introduction to a heavily revised leadership team.
Dame Sharon White has often been maligned during her tenure as Chairman of the Partnership, where this leaves the five year plan would be a case in point, however, incoming Chairman, Jason Tarry, will have much to thank her for by way of the legacy she leaves behind.
And in that regard, it wasn’t so much a return to form but more a celebration of new beginnings for the Partnership, because on the evidence of this, middle England has much to cheer about.
